Day 2 Colorado Trail 17 July 2018

We awoke in the very early morning just as the sun was beginning to rise.  I hadn’t slept well the first night on the trail.  I tossed and turned on the small thermarest sleeping pad while listening to the night sounds - wind high overhead blowing through the tall trees, Ed and Julie shifting in their tent, and the occasional call of a night bird.  But the usual stick breakers were not scavenging around our tents.  The sky was lit up with stars and so the darkness of night was not pitch black.  Rather the tall trees in star light shadow were slightly visible standing tall surrounding our tents.

I now have a system for breaking down camp.  Of course I could be more efficient.  But when your first wake up and realize it’s time to hike, you have to get your gear in your pack.  I would often rather just lie there for another hour.  But as I hear Ed moving about, I get up and get to work so I am ready when it’s time to start hiking.

Today we hiked close to 12 miles.  The first 5 miles took us down the mountain to the South Platte River which was flowing with astonishing speed over and around rocks lying in its path.  We spent considerable time on the shores filtering water, drinking at least a liter to prepare for the start of Segment 2.  Segment 2 is 11.5 miles.  And it’s a dry section meaning that there are no natural water sources.  In addition the trail goes through a large dry burn area so there is very little cover from the sun.  And it’s hot.  I left the South Platte River with 4.5 liters of water to get me to the next water source which happened to be an emergency spigot at mile 10.1 in Segment 2.  A firehouse building just off the trail allows hikers to get water from the spigot at the back of the building,.  I took extra water in case we didn’t make it to the spigot had to dry camp again.

The burn area was actually hauntingly beautiful.  The entire landscape was dotted with tall burned trees, blackened and charred.  Some still had a few branches broken off along their once mighty arms so that they stuck out in sharp jagged ruins.  The trail travelled upward along this once green forrest.  The hot wind blew along the ridge lines providing welcome relief from the growing heat.  You could see far and wide across the burned scarred mountains.  I was reminded of the PCT numerous times - long water carry, hot, exposed landscape, dusty and very dry.   

I began to feel the dryness in my mouth.  And soon I found that I was no longer hungry.  The warm water from my water bottle was not refreshing.  I reminded myself that it was only day 2 and I needed time to adjust to this new climate and to be hiking 10 hours a day again.  But the painful reminders of the PCT were present as much as I tried to push them aside.  I forced myself to eat when I could.  And I continued to drink small sips at frequent stops.  I had to keep myself hydrated.  I truly do love to hike.  But when your body is rejecting the hiking demands and you start to feel dehydrated, exhausted with no appetite, you start to feel ill.  The thought of food becomes unappealing.  Even drinking water becomes difficult.  The mouth becomes so dry, the lips crusted.  But I refuse to let these physical results of hiking stop me.  I refuse to relive the experience of the PCT.  Hiking in the heat of summer takes a lot out of me.  I can only hope that my body will adjust.  Today is only day 2.

After another climb out of the burn section to the top of a ridge, dark clouds began to form around some of the distant peaks.  The temperature dropped and the wind began to blow.  We hiked on trying to find a campsite to set up our tents before the storm hit.  Thunder echoed from the approaching mass of deep billowing grey.  We came upon another group of hikers we had met on the first day - Frank and the 3 New Hampshire men.  They were already camped with their tents set up.  There was space for us as well.  As soon as we dropped our packs, the rain began to fall in heavy loud droplets.  We quickly set up the Big Agnes rain fly and ground cloth.  While Ed secured guy lines to stakes, Julie and I huddled underneath listening to the rain pelt the rainfly.  The dirt was so loose that some of the stakes came up and the tent poles came loose.  Julie and held on to them and did our best to secure the fly while the gusts of wind tried to bring it down.  Thunder erupted again and again but I didn’t see any lightening. The summer storms had started.  And we would just have to get used to them as we hiked over exposed mountains and ridge lines.  I just lay on my back feeling completely exhausted and nauseous.  But I was also very excited by the sudden change in weather.  The air was now cooler.  I felt a slight chill as the wind hit my moist skin and sweaty wet clothes. 

The storm did pass.  And soon we were setting up camp at another location further down the mountain.  We made our dinners.  I had ramen chicken with real pieces of chicken from a foil pack.  While it was delicious, I found I couldn’t eat the whole thing.  When will my appetite return?

As we settled down for the night, we again heard distant thunder and saw storm clouds making another approach.  We set up our rain flys just in time as the edge of the storm hovered over our camp sprinkling our tents with light rain.  Listening to the thunder and hearing the drops hit the fly, I thought about the day and did my very best to consider all of the wonderful landscapes and colors, fragrances, wildlife and weather I had experienced in a single day.  And I reminded myself that hiking is hard.  But those moments that fill you up with great beauty or dramatic weather layer the hardness with the wonder of the world.  And I hike to see the world and exist in a place that inspires and transforms.  Today was filled with great running rivers, turbulent weather, vast exposed landscapes, comradery, challenge, rare beauty.  And lying there I also had to remind myself that hiking this trail is a privilege and something I chose to do.

As the storm settled, I tried to also settle my mind.  Darkness approached.  And I simply said a quiet thank you and let sleep over take me for another night.

Day 1 Colorado Trail 16 July 2018

I am in my tent without the rain fly as the forecast only calls for 10% chance of rain at 9pm.Even now at 7:30 pm the air is still very warm - in the upper 70’s. But there is a nice breeze blowing through the tent and it feels good on my skin - skin that has been covered in sweat for most of the day.It has been day 1 of our hike.We’ve managed to go 11.2 miles.And it feels really good to have made it this far.We are camped on top of a tree lined mountain at 7200 feet.Our campsite is right next to the trail.And it’s a dry camp which means there is no natural water source nearby.In fact we have a 5 mile hike tomorrow morning to take us to the South Platte River to filter water for the day.But for today we managed to reserve water in case we had to dry camp.And we have enough for the morning coffee as well as for the hike down. The air is so quiet.Occasionally a bird will cry out and sometimes you can hear the wind in the tall pine trees.But otherwise all is very still. I am waiting for the sun to set, for night to come and then for sleep to allow my body to rest.

We started the day at 6am, waking at the hotel.  We showered, packed our gear and had a quick breakfast at the hotel.  Then a shuttle drove us the 8 miles to the Colorado Trail Trailhead in Waterton Canyon.  We hoisted our packs, extended our trekking poles and then walked to the sign announcing the start of the trail.  We took a pause, letting the moment sink in.  And then we started walking.  And the trail welcomed us.  And it felt really good to be hiking.

The first 6.2 miles followed a dirt road along the South Platte River.  The views of the river gushing through the canyon were gorgeous.  Although it was only 8:30am, the sun was already very hot.  We tried to walk in the momentary shade created by the steep rocky cliffs and small groves of trees aligning the road.  But after mile two, I was pretty much drenched in sweat.  My new strategy to stay hydrated with good electrolyte and salt balance is to take a salt tablet and drink as much water as I can at each water source.  And it seemed to be working as I was often hungry and able to eat at rest stops.  I hope I can keep this up.  I really don’t want another PCT experience.

At mile 6.7 we veered off from the dirt road and began to follow a single track path covered in soft dirt and brown pine needles.  And then the true climb began.  We continued to ascent through switchbacks.  A notice at the beginning of the single track warned of recent bear activity with one bear being more aggressive with people.  Apparently very recently a hiker tent had been destroyed.  We had already heard reports of bear activity at a good camp site near Bear Creek at mile 8.7.  Our plan was to filter water at this site but then move on.  When we arrived at Bear Creek, there was no running water, only standing stagnant pools in some of the deeper trenches of the creek bed.  We needed water so we filtered from this source.  While it would have been nice to spend our first night at Bear Creek because the camp sites were so level and free of small rocks and twigs, we made better mileage today moving on to a campsite at mile 11.2.  The climb from Bear Creek while only a little over 2 miles was steep and rocky.  We found ourselves out of breath numerous times.  But we did make it.  Other hikers we had met on the way continued on to the end of segment 1 at mile 16.8.  But we felt that we had done enough for the first day.  I reminded Julie and Ed of my recent experience on this PCT - pushing to fast right at the start.

So we set up our tents, had our dinner, hung our bear bags of food.  And now I am in my tent.  And suddenly thunder is echoing across the sky.  Maybe I should put on the rain fly after all.  The air has turned cooler.  I feel sleep coming on.  I feel amazed at the stream of events that brought me here.  And as the sun sets, the light changes the shades of trees and new shadows emerge.  I am on the Colorado Trail.  And I just walked 11.2 miles to this small campsite atop a small mountain filled with variations of pine and old earth.  Soon darkness will overtake the available light.  And soon sleep will come and then morning ushering in a new day.  Day 2.  And I simply cannot wait.

Colorado Trail Pre Hike 15 July 2018

It’s Sunday night and I am Littleton, Colorado on the outskirts of Denver. The Waterton Canyon trailhead for the Colorado Trail is 8 miles away. From the hotel where we are spending the night, I can see the canyon carved between the foothills of the Rocky Mountains - Waterton Canyon. Tomorrow we will walk the first 6.2 miles along a dirt road that follows the South Platte River before departing onto a single track trail that will lead us into the shelter of trees as we begin to ascend. The air should be a cool welcoming 62 degrees when we start.

Today the sky darkened with thick grey clouds riding over the crests of the mountains that hover over Colorado Springs.  The air turned from summer heat to an early spring chill with gusts of wind and then soon heavy rain.  There were moments where the entire mountain range with the majestic Pikes Peak were completely hidden in thick voluminous clouds of shadow.   As we drove to Denver, the rain continued to fall.  Knowing that Colorado has had very little precipitation this summer, I was glad for the sudden change in weather.  Hopefully now some small streams almost dry will have trickles of water along the trail.  And we just received word that the last segments closed due to a fire have now reopened so we can complete the trail all the way to Durango.

My thoughts are calm tonight.  I take comfort in the companionship of Ed and Julie.  I feel my hiker energy rising to the surface ready to propel me forward one step at a time.   In the dark of night I know that the trail is out there - 8  miles away - waiting.  And tomorrow I will find myself walking along its pathway.

Tomorrow the hike begins.   And I will let that beginning represent a moment in my life, fleeting and fantastic. 

Colorado Trail Pre Hike 14 July 2018

There comes the moment when you just have to pack the car and trust that you are hopefully ready.Time will eventually dictate when the planning and organizing must cease and the hiking must start. And I am so relieved that I am only days away from starting the Colorado Trail thru hike. The hours of planning and preparation are coming to a welcome close.I am now in Colorado Springs. Tomorrow I leave for Denver.Monday I start the 486 mile hike from Denver to Durango.Monday.But I won’t be alone. Julie and Ed will be with me.Together we will traverse steep canyons, high mountain passes, forests of pine trees and aspens, lush meadows. Together we will share in the challenges, the exhilarations, the mighty fortitude, bravery and strength.And hopefully I will fulfill a personal calling that brought me to this moment - the call of the wild, the call of adventure - to have an exceptional experience in my life.

Our final day in Ohio  - Thursday July 12th. - was spent spraying hiking gear with permethrin, mailing out resupply boxes to our first stop on the trail - Bailey, last minute errands and final gear review.  While Julie fulfilled her last moments of employment, Ed and I worked throughout the day, culminating with packing the car in the late afternoon so we could depart in the early evening.  We would drive to St. Louis, about six and half hours away, spend the night and then drive the rest of the way to Colorado to arrive Friday evening.   As the car sped away from the traffic in Columbus, the sun was beginning its slow descent in the western sky turning into a perfect orange circle suspended in darkening blue haze - a beacon that we followed on our path to the west until it submerged completely into the horizon and vanished.  With Ed driving, Julie and I began to drift into half awake slumber.  We were listening to an audio book - Hiking Through - about a man’s wandering thru hike of the Appalachian Trail.   Eventually we turned it off and then sleep did come.   I managed to stay awake long enough to see the city lights of Indianapolis.   But I missed St. Louis, and then we arrived at the hotel for the night around 1:30 am.   Within ten minutes of checking in, we were all in bed.  And then for me, sleep was only seconds away.

Waking early, we continued our driving trek to Colorado Springs.  I was now familiar with the ever changing landscapes from east to west but as we crossed over from Kansas to Colorado, I found myself still amazed at the wide expansive prairies along a highway that continued forever in a straight flat line.

We would spend the next few days with Ed and Julie’s son Tyler and his wife Anna in their lovely home in Colorado Springs.  These generous pre hike days would allow us to adjust to the altitude and get some much needed rest after traveling.  The last time I hiked in Colorado in 2016, I had a very difficult time handling the higher elevations.  Colorado Springs has an elevation of around 6600 feet.  Upon arriving, I did notice the lack of oxygen and increase in my breathing.  But so far, the higher elevation hasn’t affected me adversely like it did in 2016.  On Sunday we leave for Denver which has an elevation of around 5000 feet.  Our first few days on the trail will keep us between 5000-6000 feet.  So I will have even more time to adjust before we begin to climb into the higher elevations.   But I know that 10,000 and 12,000 feet are not far away.   And I hope I can handle those elevations when the time comes.   And it will come.  

Today Tyler took us on a training hike along the Saint Mary’s Falls trail near Colorado Springs.  The six mile hike would take us from 7650 feet to 8900 feet.   I decided to wear my pack, almost fully loaded for the hike.  The road to the trailhead wound up and around a lower level peak with higher peaks surrounding.  Ed drove the car around those narrow turns, climbing higher and higher.  When we arrived at 8am, the air was already very warm and the sun was shining in the sky blazing the rust colored dirt and rocks with intense light.  We began the hike along a wide dusty dirt path covered with small pebbles that  gently climbed upward.   After a mile the path veered off to a narrower channel that soon began a steeper engagement.  I found myself breathing heavy, my heart racing to keep up with the increased need for oxygen.   But the beauty of the Colorado landscape remained refreshingly vibrant and new.   This was a world filled with pine tree fragrances lingering in the light air.  Gazing through the trees I could see startling variations of pine, layers of intricate slender green needles intertwined in complex patterns.  The sky overhead was wide and blue  - such rich blue  - with puffy white clouds floating, drifting, shifting.   I was soon wet with sweat.  My shirt stuck to my back and my forehead was dripping with small beads of wetness that ran down my face.  I stopped to wipe my face, drink from my water bottle and let my heart slow.   And then I continued on because that is what you do when you are hiking.   You move onward toward your goal.  For today our goal was the Saint Mary’s Falls where we would rest and linger at the edges of the cascading water flowing down along wet rocks.  And soon we had made it! I was feeling very good.  I took off my pack, ate some salty chips and drank healthily from my water bottle.  Even now, before we start the CT Hike on Monday, I am constantly reminded to keep hydrated with my salt/electrolyte equation in balance.   So far so good! And here we were at 8900 feet, resting in the warm air, listening to the falling water, basking in the moment.

The hike down along the same path was much easier and we made good time.  Soon we were back to the car and then we were winding down the mountain road back to Colorado Springs.   I found myself reflecting on the upcoming hike.  Monday morning would be here soon - Watertown Canyon Trailhead.  And then we would take our first steps on the trail.   So many lingering questions arose in my mind one after the other bursting to the forefront - questions about the weather, the terrain, the campsites, water sources, gear.   But the lingering questions had no answers.   I cannot ultimately predict what is going to happen.  I cannot control when it will be blistering hot, when it will rain for hours on end with sudden flashes of lightening or when a much needed water source will be dry.  I can only trust that I can handle each moment as it happens in the immediate.  And I can only hope that I will accept each challenge as a part of the profound experience.   But for today, I am grateful that we were able to complete this training hike.   The hike provided a boost of confidence that I needed.  Tomorrow we arrive in Denver.   Almost there.

Colorado Trail Pre Hike 5 July 2018

The swirl of days blend together to form whirlwind weeks that surround the momentum of my presently wandering life.  In two weeks I will be in the middle of the first week of the Colorado Trail Thru Hike accompanied by my sister Julie and her husband Ed.   I try not to think too much about attempting another thru hike and the difficulties I will face on the trail high in the Rocky Mountains.  I do try, but my feelings and emotions come bursting through.  I am truly excited and filled with abundant anticipation.  Thoughts of panoramic vistas and high mountain passes covered with layers of tundra and wildflowers fill my mind and feed my adventurous spirit.   But this time my wanderlust and yearning for adventure are not seeped in a romantic version of a thru hike.  I am prepared for very hard intense days on the trail.   I think of fortitude, endurance, stubborn willpower and completion.  The Pacific Crest Trail taught me valuable lessons.  I don’t want to revisit those sweltering, withering moments on that dusty hot trail. Hiking is hard.  Very hard.  And all the beautiful images and lengthy poetic descriptions of landscapes will not diminish the physical and mental stamina required to walk through challenging terrain in potentially harsh atmospheric conditions.   Now I am ready.  At least I tell myself I am.  I simply have to believe I can do it. 

I have been hard at work preparing a resupply blueprint.  This time around, instead of 30 resupply locations like on the PCT, we have 8 stops in small mountain towns with names like Jefferson, Breckenridge, Leadville, Silverton.   Some stops will include spending the night while others will also include taking a day off -  a zero -  to rest, replenish and do laundry.  After spending so much time preparing for the PCT, I feel up to the task for prepping the Colorado Trail.   Along with drafting the resupply blueprint, I have been reading about each of the 28 Segments of the trail and the 5 segments for the Collegiate West – an alternative route that opened in 2012 and follows the Continental Divide Trail with higher elevations than the original Colorado Trail on the Collegiate East.  We are planning on hiking the Collegiate West.

The Colorado Trail Foundation has a fantastic website filled with information for hikers along with an online store to order a small data book that one can easily take on the trail as well as a more detailed CT Guidebook.  We won’t be taking the CT Guidebook as it is too heavy but I will be including a digital version on my iphone.   Guthook has an app for the Colorado Trail to help with navigation, camp sites, water sources, mileage and elevation.  I have also downloaded CT maps to my GAIA GPS app.   Everything I have read indicates that the trail is very well maintained with clear markings for staying on the trail.    When we hiked Segment 8 in 2016, we witnessed firsthand the confidence markers and well graded path.  This summer will definitely have some distinct challenges; a fire near Durango has closed the last 4 segments, 25-28.   And the entire trail has fire restrictions.  We will be able to use our canister fuel stoves but all open fires and campfires are prohibited.   It’s been a very dry summer.  The brush is dry and brittle.  We are hoping that the mid-summer monsoon season starts soon to help prevent any future fires and to assist in containing/stopping the current flames.   We have developed back up plans in case Segments 25-28 remain closed by the time we get there in mid-August.   We may go back and hike the Collegiate East.  I have also been reading about some alternative trails including the Continental Divide Trail that will get us close to Durango.   I feel compelled to get to Durango.  Denver to Durango. 

Last weekend I found myself back at Mohican State Park in Ohio with Julie and Ed for another training hike in preparation for the Colorado Trail.   With the temperature forecasted for the 90’s with high humidity, we were prepared for a sweaty, hot hike.   And while I was often drenched in sweat and extremely sticky, it wasn’t as quite as hot as predicted – but pretty close.   The trees provided welcomed shade from the driving force of the sun’s heat.   And while we had plenty of gnats buzzing around our faces, there were surprisingly very few mosquitoes.  We began the hike along a horse path that wound downward along tree covered hills with base layers of ferns and green brush.  The recent rains had left the trail extremely muddy in places.  We had to be cautious stepping around sudden mounds of horse dung that mixed in with the mud creating aromatic layers of deep brownish wet clumps.  We also had to wade through a river that intersected the trail numerous times along the path.   It seemed appropriate to forge through the cold refreshing waters in our trail runners to test how fast they would dry.  The immediate slushiness of the water in our socks and  inserts soon gave way to a general sense of dampness.  Feeling the cold water as the current rushed past our legs was worth having wet feet.  I was careful where I stepped along the submerged rocks covered in slippery moss and then up and over the embankments slathered in ruddy mud. 

Eventually we encountered one of the Mohican bike trails which wound up and around more forested hills.  This narrower path was a welcome change to the muddy wide horse paths.  I found myself settling in to a pleasant hiker rhythm, keeping a steady pace while my mind drifted in and around random melodies and then suddenly stumbled upon heady thoughts of the very near future – Colorado.   I would sometimes pretend I was hiking along the Colorado Trail nearing the tree line in preparation for summiting a pass high in the gossamer clouds.   I felt a cascading thrill rush through my body and my skin tingled with heightened electric current.  Soon.  Very soon.  Colorado.  My Zpacks Arc Blast felt really good on my back and shoulders.  I wasn’t sure if this was the right pack for me but I am now committed to taking it on the CT.   The Brooks Cascadia trail runners seemed to be working out as well.  Having gear I trust provides bountiful confidence on the trail.  

After hiking for 7.5 miles, we arrived at our campsite nestled in a forested ravine along the shallow banks of a gentle river.  The established site contained a luxurious table made of stone and an enclosed fire ring.   We went about our camp chores, setting up tents and inflating sleeping pads.  I chose a spot relatively close to the river.  The wet dirt ground was relatively free of rocks and small twigs.  I had brought a new tent on this hike.  As much as I have tried to love the Zpacks Duplex tent, I felt that I needed a freestanding or semi free standing tent on the CT.  The Duplex is a great tent.  Truly one of the lightest tents.  And if I had had more experience setting it up, I am sure it would be included in my gear for the CT.  But I had problems getting a good pitch on the PCT due to the soft ground.   At the end of the day after hiking for many hours, I want to know that I can easily set up my tent.  I don’t want to have to scramble to find rocks to hold loose tent stakes or spend time being creative with rigging.  So I bought the Big Agnes Tiger Wall 2  - a two person semi free standing tent with dedicated tent poles.   I brought it on this hike to test it out.  And I love it!  It weighs a bit more than pound over the Duplex.  But the weight is the same as my Big Agnes Copper Spur UL 1 which is a single person tent.  I feel like it was a very good compromise.  I am willing to carry the extra pound and will try to eliminate other items in my pack to account for the added weight.   I can set the Tiger Wall 2 up in minutes.   It's spacious and I love the gold color!   Because the air was still stifling hot as I set up the tent and the weather forecast did not indicate any overnight rain, I didn’t use the rain fly.  The exposed overhead netting of the tent body would allow me to see out into the night sky while allowing for voluminous air flows and hopefully no deep night condensation.  

Soon we had our pots filled with water heating over the powerful flames of our cook stoves attached to fuel canisters.  We cooked ramen noodles adding in packets of chicken.  Perfect!  It was exactly what I needed and filled me up.    After dinner, Ed masterfully got a fire started using wet twigs and larger pieces of sodden wood.  The flames flickered as the sun set behind the trees while the smoke billowed into thin wisps of cloudy grey plumes.  I stood close to the fire to help dry out my salty sweat drenched wet clothes and reduce the humid clammy sheen that clung to my skin.   The smoke’s woody fragrance wafted through the thick air.  I found the dry heat and smoke comforting amidst the damp wetness that lingered in the evening air.   As the sun sank beneath the tall trees, we hung the food bags and then made our way to our tents for the evening.   It was still too warm to even contemplate getting in my sleeping bag.  I spread my sleeping bag liner on top of my sleeping pad and just lengthened my body resting on top.   With my sleeping bag bunched up near my feet, I was able to elevate my legs a little.  I just lay there feeling hot and sticky.  I hoped that my stillness would soon cool my body enough so I could fall asleep.  The sounds of the river rushing nearby were indeed soothing.  And soon, as darkness approached, fireflies began to circle in the air above my tent creating a random ballet of flickering yellow lights – a moving constellation hovering close and then high high above me toward the tops of the shadowy trees.   It took me a long time to fall asleep amidst the nocturnal reverie of nightlights and cascading water.  But eventually I did fall asleep.   And then eventually I awoke just as the morning sun was beginning to spill sunlight into the ravine.  And I watched the world change from shadow to radiance.